Cangas del Narcea
I recently travelled to Northern Spain to visit what might just be the most gluten-free-friendly town in the world: Cangas del Narcea.
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Tucked away in the mountains of Asturias, this small town of around 11,000 people has something pretty extraordinary about it—approximately 3% of its population has coeliac disease, more than double the European average.
And because of this, something remarkable has happened.
Cangas hasn’t become completely gluten-free (despite what you might read online), but instead, it has developed a town-wide gluten-free accreditation system, supported by the local council and coeliac associations. Restaurants, cafés, bakeries, and even hotels can be certified—meaning strict protocols are in place to prevent cross-contamination.
The result? A destination where eating out as a coeliac feels… easy. Safe. Normal.
Where Is Cangas del Narcea (and How Do You Get There?)
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Cangas del Narcea is located about 1 hour and 20 minutes southwest of Asturias Airport, the closest major airport serving the region. While public transport is possible - typically a bus to Oviedo followed by another to Cangas - it’s not the most efficient route. If you can, hire a car.
Not only does it make the journey far smoother, but it also opens up access to one of Spain’s most underrated regions—full of mountains, forests, vineyards, and traditional villages.
Eating Gluten-Free in Cangas del Narcea
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My first stop was Café Madrid, known for its cachopo—one of Asturias’ most famous dishes.
If you’ve never had it before, imagine a schnitzel… but elevated. Thin veal fillets are stuffed with cheese and serrano ham, then breaded and fried. The version I tried also included mushrooms and peppers—and it actually won Spain’s national cachopo competition in 2020.
We ordered a sharing portion with a side salad, and it was everything you’d want: rich, indulgent, and completely gluten-free.
A must-try if you visit.
On a recommendation, we visited Casa del Río, a restaurant focused on traditional Asturian cuisine.
From the moment we sat down, the experience stood out. We were served bread to start—and for once, my gluten-free bread was bigger than my partner’s.
A rare win.
We shared:
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A hearty Asturian stew with beans, greens, and a slightly spicy local sausage
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A slow-cooked beef rib in BBQ gravy with potato wedges and mustard tomato sauce
The beef quite literally fell off the bone -rich, tender, and packed with flavour.
We finished with a gooey chocolate soufflé, and honestly, I could have stayed there all evening. Out of the entire menu, there were only three dishes I couldn’t eat. And when I asked about gluten-free options, the staff immediately referred to me as coeliac - no explanation needed.
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For something more relaxed, we visited Street Food - a casual spot offering pizzas, burgers, nachos, and more, all of which can be made gluten-free.
It’s the kind of place you’d go if you want flexibility without sacrificing safety.
Another must-visit is Narcea, a specialty food shop filled with regional products. Inside, there’s a small but brilliant selection of gluten-free bakes—perfect for picking up snacks or gifts.
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There is of course, plenty of other accredited gluten free restaurants, but you'd need a few extra days to get through them all. While I didn't get to try everywhere, all the places I did eat I highly recommend.
If you'd like to see all the restaurants & establishments participating in the accreditation, you can see them all here!
Cangas Annual Gluten-Free Festival
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Every May, Cangas del Narcea hosts one of the most important gluten-free festivals in Spain.
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For a few days, the entire town becomes a hub for the gluten-free community, with:
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Cooking demonstrations from specialist chefs
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Workshops on safe food preparation for coeliacs
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Tastings of gluten-free breads, pastries, and traditional Asturian dishes
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Talks on cross-contamination and improving safety standards
Local producers and accredited restaurants set up stalls across the town, so you can try a huge variety of food—all with the same trusted certification.
It’s not just a food festival—it’s a celebration of how far gluten-free awareness has come, and a big part of why this town feels so ahead of the curve, you can find more info about that here: https://cangassingluten.com/
Where to Stay
We stayed at La Cabaña l’Cachican, a boutique hotel just a 5-minute drive outside the town.
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Set on a hill overlooking the valley, it’s the kind of place that instantly feels calm and tucked away.
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Our studio had:
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A kitchenette
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Queen bed
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Living space with fireplace
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Dining area
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Beautiful valley views
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The décor was traditional and cosy, but what really made the stay stand out was the attention to gluten-free needs.
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As soon as the owner heard I was coeliac, she brought a dedicated gluten-free toaster straight to our room. The hotel itself is also part of the town’s accreditation system, which adds another level of reassurance.
More Than Just Food: What Else to Do
If you need to convince friends or family to join you, there’s plenty here beyond the food. Asturias is known for its wine and cider culture, with many local vineyards offering tours and tastings using traditional methods.
For nature lovers, the surrounding area is incredible.One of the highlights is Muniellos Natural Reserve - the largest oak forest in Spain. To protect its ecosystem, visitor numbers are limited to just 20 people per day. The biodiversity here is huge, with over 400 species of fungi and wildlife including deer, wild boar, foxes, wolves - and even bears. Yes, bears. You can actually join guided tours to try and spot them in the wild.
I came across Bosque Activo, a company offering bear-watching experiences, even including a gluten-free picnic option. If I’d had more time, that’s exactly what I would have done.
Cangas del Narcea might not be completely gluten-free - but it’s the closest I’ve ever felt to total ease as a coeliac while travelling. The combination of accreditation, awareness, and genuine care makes this place stand out in a way no other destination quite does. In fact, the nearby cities of Gijon & Oviedo are also worth checking out, especially if you are looking for gluten free baked goods!
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Before you go, there are a couple of things worth knowing:
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Most restaurants can’t be booked online, so it’s best to either ask your hotel to help make reservations or book in person earlier in the day.
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English isn’t widely spoken, especially in smaller cafés and traditional spots - so having a way to clearly communicate your needs makes a big difference.
If you’d like something to make that easier, you can use a coeliac translation card here.
Honestly? A week here would have been perfect. But I guess that just means I’ll have to come back.